A lot of ubisoft and ea single player games since they don’t need uplay

Case in point Assassins Creed Black flag which requires a login at the start of search session, runs flawlessly on CEMU

Oldest system, by release year its my Hong Kong 6 Switch Atari 2600. Local guy was selling it and it was in immaculate condition. Dust cover on the system, with boxed games.

At the time I was selling games and systems, so I kept the system and 2 games for myself. Don’t use it much since its a 2600, but I have it on my shelf.

Oldest system I own is my GBC, had it since before my youngest sibling was born and I still have it today. Obviously doesn’t get much use since GBA SP, but I still keep it around.

The FunkoPop Store EB Games here in Canada were re-labeled to GameStop recently. They’re still in every Mall in the land from what I’ve seen. Though they are doing better. Game selection isn’t what it use to be, but the variety is growing now. I was surprised when I found Manga in our local GameStop.

Not exactly my cup of tea, but catering to “Nerd” culture, and going beyond “Merch” is something I can get behind, since it’s rare to see another store not selling the same old drivel as everyone else.

I’ve been at this for years, most of my designs are like your solid parts (Display Stands and DS Stylus). I’ve only recently tried experimenting with moving parts, and I’ve found using mixed mediums the best when 3D printing. i.e. using cloth or leather as the moving medium, with TPU or PETG for strength/flexibility.

As for what this is for. I’ve designed and made 3D Printable e-reader cases, which this link will show you the printable parts for, but I’d like to make a case for my iPad and other tablets, however I want to be able to prop it up and for it to be stable. This is designed with my cases in mind, and it has the clearance to lay flush with the back panel.

End goal is to have this embeded in the back so I can prop it up landscape, while I have another in the sleep cover so it can be propped up portrait, like an easel.

I could achieve the same effect by making the arms thicker. Though I am thinking of printing the screw caps in TPU to see if I can make it stiffer that way.

Trying to keep the parts the same as the main thing this belongs too. M2 threaded inserts and 5mm screws. So not a lot of flexibility when it comes to thickness. That said, as a MK2 I’d probably make it 2mm thick rather than 1.2mm since that’s my goto size for stiffness.

I didn’t have to do that. Bought my parts from Canada Computers and they open the Motherboard box in store before the sale, to inspect it, and I had to sign off on it.

That said I had some issues of my own design. My PC has a space for a 3 1/2" floppy and I wanted it internal so I got a USB adapter for it to run off of the internal header. The damn board locks up on boot if its in.

Probably a setting but still annoying

Ram is x2 16GB sticks, my BIOS yelled at me for not putting them in the optimum channels.

M.2 has my 2TB Linux Mint install and my 1TB Windows install. I’m not dual booting, just having the Windows install nearby just in case.

Well I did enable XMP, but since I’m on a B series board I don’t think I can overclock. And she’s toasty as is with the intel cooler.

I know, I just hope that they don’t point to it and say “this is the reason we don’t make 2D Zelda games” like they did with Chibi Robo and that god awful 3DS game, or Star Fox and that god awful Wii U game.

We do, but they aren’t that good of a deal, especially since you can get the same discount… if not more, if you buy used. And you can sell the game when you are done rather than being stuck with digital.

That said, outside of Nintendo, who rarely if ever discount their games, most games on modern systems get heavily discounted months if not a year after they come out. You are a fool if you buy the latest Ubisoft Game new since it’s usually $15-$30 before it’s been on-sale for a year. Even Sony first party IP, I got most of them for $10-$20 a pop new or digital, since I bought in at the tail end of the PS4 generation.

Been waiting for a new 2d Zelda game since link awakening was rereleased. So far it looks interesting. The only issue I can see with this game is that it to is going to be $79.99 CAD and from what I’ve seen it’s so not going to be worth that. Hoping for a $49.99 or $59.99 CAD price tag, but this is Nintendo.

Right, lots of suggestions for Bambu and Prusa and rightfully so. But their prices are high and while they are worth it, they wouldn’t be what I’d suggest for a first time printer.

The Ender 3 is what I’d suggest, though not the V1. The S1 or the v3 and good starting points for being in budget and having some modern features.

This isn’t like the mid 2010’s where it was hit or miss and the printers will have a slight chance of burning your house down. Hictop anyone? But these days even a $200 printer is good enough to start printing.

That said software is going to be your biggest pain point.

For the slicer make sure its compatible with PrusaSlicr or Cura. Preferability the former. This makes the models to print, and some cheep third party slicers makes their own with questionable quality and support.

For modeling, you have some options. Blender if you are looking to design 3d shapes like clay. Fusion360 is a cheap and free (while limited) solution for parametric cad design. With TinkerCAD is a good in between. But like Photoshop is to gimp, Fusion 360 is to FreeCAD and it may be worth learning how FreeCAD works since its an extremely flexible tool.

TL:DR Ender 3 V3/S1, Prusa Slicer, Cura, Blender, TinkerCAD, Fusion360, FreeCAD and you should be too to start printing and making brackets.

$500 for a Krabby Patty?

With cheese Mr. Squidward, with cheese.

I don’t like apple. But I love to recommend them for 4 reasons:

1. The hardware, even the cheapest base specs is light years better than anything from Windows or Android. I can’t tell you how many times a relative bought an Android and stopped using it because it was unresponsive after a week. Or I had to stop another from buying a Windows PC with only 4GB of RAM… in 2022.

2. The fake download links are targeting Windows not Mac. Meaning that when a relative downloads their games or cousins gets a hold of their computer to download minecraft skins, their machine won’t be playing breakout on their desktop (yes this actually happened, and lived in the RAM from what I could tell)

3. When the OS updates, the careful configuration I made for them doesn’t break. Why [RELATIVE] are you using Edge, when I set up Chrome for you… oh your machine updated and moved the chrome icon, and this looks close enough to IE that you clicked on it. Cool.

4. I don’t have to teach them how to use Video Chats, or Web Messages, as they are baked in, won’t change after a week, and has been consistent since forever. Sure suck on my end when they ping my iPad instead of my phone, but that’s on me.

While I understand your argument. I have my own philosophy for what is retro in terms of games.

For me I don’t look at the system but the games. And for games it about 10-15 years after they were first released.

Enough time that kids can be born and never see this game until now. While I wouldn’t call Pokemon Sun/Moon retro just yet. The 3ds/2ds has games on it that I would consider it retro.

Its been over half a decade since Nintendo stopped making games for it, and even longer since people cared about it.

The only time I will argue something isn’t retro is when its still on the store shelf and not in the discount bin.

If you want me to make you feel old the hardware was released in 2013, making it over 10 years old this year.

I use Linux because of the 3D desktop cube. Who doesn’t love the cube!

To clarify, this is what my e-reader case looks like

What this replaces is the side without the e-reader. As for overheating, never been an issue since the e-reader is exposed to the air and the heat goes through the screen.

Recommendations for learning. Have someone who knows how to hand sew nearby to ask questions. My local leather shop has classes to help newbies.

That said I didn’t take those, as I had a really good idea on what I wanted, and someone nearby that could teach me to sew. Plus I used cutting machines to do a lot of the heavy lifting.

My only advice is to not use a vinyl cutter like from Cricut or Silhouette. The motors are not strong enough to cut actual leather, they fetch and loose steps very easily. Laser is your best bet, though the smell is pungent, ventilation is required.

The other advise is unlike cloth, you need to plan and make your stitch holes before you sew. Leather is too thick to punch through it without significant force. A Sharp knife is your best friend if you missed a hole.

I too do not understand social media. The best I get is it’s about people shouting into a void and hoping someone else heard you to interact with it, by repeating it, liking it, or shouting back at you.

Hashtags are the only way to organize these posts and you need to add them or no one else will hear your shouts into the void.